A History of food in India
India’s food is diverse and wide-ranging, which is unsurprising considering the subcontinent’s great range of climates, geographies, languages, religions, tribes, cultures, and customs. There is a distinction in cuisine from north to south, and east to west. Yet, despite their differences, we recognize them as immediately Indian; what makes it this way is what Colleen Sen addresses in her volume. She surveys the diet of the Indian subcontinent over a thousand years, and discusses the development and identity of Indian cuisine through the context of religion, society, and philosophy.
The book is divided into thirteen chapters. The first chapter, ‘Climate, Crops, and Prehistory’ provides a wonderful foundation to her discussion. It discusses the physical environment and climate of the subcontinent, highlighting how varied both are – from the cold, frigid peaks of the Himalayas, to the tropical forests of Kerala. What is appreciated about Sen’s volume are the bordered boxes that are separate from the text, providing interesting facts and insight into different aspects of Indian food culture. They also share recipes, such as how to make millet bread. In addition, Sen provides tables that list different types of food with their Latin, English, and Hindi names, as well as their probable region of origin. The latter is particularly interesting as it sheds light on what is indigenous to India and what came to the subcontinent through trade, migration, war, and exploration. With regard to what is indigenous, she discusses, in sections, grains, fruits and vegetables, spices, and animals. The next section is on India’s early indigenous people and how their eating habits and customs shaped the old civilizations, such as Harappan or Indus Valley Civilization.
The latter part of the first chapter lends perfectly into the next, entitled ‘The Age of Ritual, 1700-1100 BCE’. Here, Sen talks about how the emergence of Hinduism and Vedic texts, as well as the caste influenced the development of cuisine and eating habits. She also talks about new introductions to Indian food, such as yoghurt. The third chapter, ‘The Renunciant Tradition and Vegetarianism, 1000-300 BCE’, is a fascinating account of India’s other prominent religions, such as Buddhism and Jainism. She goes through the customs and traditions of these denominations and how their beliefs facilitated distinct diets and eating practices. She also talks about the importance of vegetarianism to Buddhism, Jainism, and Hinduism, and how the practice grew from religious beliefs.
Chapter Four, ‘Global India and the New Orthodoxy, 300 BCE - 500 CE’ discusses a ‘Golden Age’ of Indian food culture, with the exposure to different places and trade. It also talks about the development of more orthodox practices in India’s religions and how this lead to specific dietary prescriptions and procedures. Chapter Five, ‘New Religious Trends and Movements: Feasting and Fasting, 500 – 1000 CE’ sheds light into how the further development of religions, particularly Hinduism and its sects, affected Indian cuisine further. It talks about different types of food that are considered sacred and offered to gods and goddesses at temples, the types of foods found in Indian Hindu epics, fasting for religions reasons, feasting for different religious holidays and observances, and how life transitions within Hindu practice influence the types of foods consumed. Chapter Five, ‘Food and Indian Doctors, 600 BCE- 600 CE’ focuses on the medicinal practice of Ayurveda and how the ancient yet powerful methods, still used today, paved the way for different types od cuisine and diets that could treat and prevent different ailments.
Chapters seven through nine provide a historical account of India and how political and societal changes affected Indian cuisine. This includes the introduction to Islam and Muslim empires, like the Delhi Sultanates and the Mughals. Chapter Ten, ‘The Europeans, the Princes and their Legacy, 1500-1947’ traces the involvement of Westerners in India, from explorers, to missionaries, to British colonialism, and how their tastes and customs influenced new trends in Indian food culture. Chapter Eleven, ‘Overview of Indian Cuisine: The Meal, Cooking Techniques and Regional Variations’ is a personal favorite; it takes the reader on a journey throughout India and highlights the different cuisines from each region. It demonstrates that while each region has very specific diets, there are qualities that unify the subcontinent’s cuisine as a whole. Chapter Twelve looks at new trends in Indian food, from 1947 to the present day, and how contemporary society, urbanization, and globalization has affected Indian food and customs, and how India has brilliantly achieved a balance between maintaining and preserving tradition and acclimating with modern needs. The final chapter looks at how Indian food has influenced and shaped cultures beyond the subcontinent, from Jamaica, to South Africa, to Britain. The organization of Sen’s book is brilliant; the chronological and historical order makes the dynamic and intricate study of India’s food culture more accessible, and by concluding with India’s impact on the rest of the world, Sen leaves the reader satisfied and fulfilled.
The book has a great timeline, reference, and bibliography section. The images, in color and in halftones, not only are of food, but of historical documents, manuscripts, different sites, and people in different stages of food preparations, from harvesting to serving. Sen’s volume is brilliant, concise, and well thought out. It would appeal to scholars, students, and food enthusiasts alike. It is a fantastic book to use as a reference, or even to retrieve classic Indian recipes from. The only warning to provide is to not read this book on an empty stomach. Sen’s book is a true delight!
Rachel Parikh, The Metropolitan Museum of Art (rachel.parikh@metmuseum.org)